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Identifying Naked Trees In the Winter

Identifying Naked Trees In the Winter

Winter’s Naked Truth: How to ID Your Trees

Winter gardening can feel a bit like looking at a black-and-white photo—lots of texture, but the obvious clues are gone. If you’ve ever walked past a bare tree in the winter and wondered if it’s an Elm or an Ash, you’re in the right place. Today, we are stripping it all back and diving into the language of bark, tree silhouettes, and leaf scars so you can feel a little more confident on those winter walks.


When in Doubt, Call the Pros: Why Arborists are Winter Heroes

Let’s talk about the real MVPs: Certified Arborists. While we’re cozying up with cocoa, these pros are out in the cold doing their best work. Why? Because winter is actually the prime time for pruning.

  • The “Naked” Advantage: Without leaves in the way, arborists can see the “bones” of the tree perfectly. They spot structural flaws, crossed branches, and disease much easier than in the summer.

  • Dormancy is Key: Pruning in winter minimizes stress on the tree and prevents the spread of certain pests and fungi that are also dormant.

  • Precision ID: An arborist doesn’t need a leaf to tell a Maple from a Mountain Ash. It’s their literal job to know every groove of bark and every bud placement. If you’ve got a massive tree that needs more than a “haircut,” hire a pro. They’ll keep your leafy friends healthy for decades.

The cool thing about arborists is they can usually identify not only the general type of tree, but sometimes even the variety!


1. Bark: The Tree’s Fingerprint

Bark is the most consistent way to identify a tree year-round. In winter, it’s the star of the show.

  • The Paper Chaser (Birch): This is the “easy mode” of tree ID. If it’s white and peeling off in horizontal papery strips, you’re looking at a Birch.

  • The Deep Grooves (Cottonwood/Oak): Older Cottonwoods and many Oaks have deeply furrowed, “corky” bark. It looks like a topographical map of a mountain range.

  • The Smooth Operator (Beech/Young Poplar): Some trees maintain a smooth, almost skin-like bark for years. Beech trees are famous for this—they look like elephant legs!

  • The Diamond Pattern (Ash): If you look closely at a mature Ash tree, the ridges in the bark often form distinct diamond shapes.

2. The Silhouette: Shape Matters

Sometimes, you can ID a tree from across the park just by its “outfit.” The overall habit or shape of the tree is a massive clue.

  • Columnar: These trees are the “tall drinks of water.” They grow straight up and stay narrow, like a pillar. Think Columnar Aspens or certain types of Maples.

  • Weeping: Branches that dive toward the ground. The Weeping Willow is the classic example, but Weeping Birches are also common in Calgary landscapes.

  • Pyramidal: Wide at the bottom, tapering to a point. Many young Lindens and Oaks follow this “Christmas tree” logic even without the needles.

  • Vase-Shaped: The classic American Elm shape. The trunk goes up and then “fountains” out into a wide, elegant canopy.

![An image illustrating common deciduous tree silhouettes in winter: columnar, weeping, pyramidal, and vase-shaped.]

3. Leftovers: Fruit and Seed Pods

Trees are a bit messy, and thank goodness for that! Often, the “trash” left behind is the best clue.

  • The Bean Pods (Manitoba Maple/Catalpa): If you see long, cigar-like pods hanging on, or “helicopter” samaras (the little wings) still clinging to the tips, you’ve got a Maple or a Catalpa.

  • The Cones (Alder): Wait, a deciduous tree with cones? Yep! Alders have tiny, woody “cones” that stick around all winter.

  • Persistent Berries (Mountain Ash/Crabapple): These are the bird feeders of the winter world. If the tree is covered in clusters of orange or red pomes, it’s likely one of these hardy favorites.

4. Leaf Scars: The Secret “Monkey Face”

This is where you get to be a real plant nerd. A leaf scar is the mark left on a twig after a leaf falls off. You’ll need to get up close for this.

  • Black Walnut: This is the fan favorite. If you look at the leaf scar of a Black Walnut, it looks exactly like a little monkey face (the vascular bundles look like eyes and a mouth).

  • Ash Trees: Their scars are typically shield-shaped or circular.

  • Horse Chestnut: Look for a large, horseshoe-shaped scar, often with “nail holes” (bundle scars) around the edge.

![An image of a Black Walnut leaf scar on a winter twig, clearly showing the “monkey face” appearance.]


Still Stumped? The City of Calgary Has Your Back

If you’re out for a walk in YYC and find a public tree that’s driving you crazy, don’t stress. The City of Calgary Tree Map is an incredible digital database. You can zoom in on almost any tree on public land (parks, boulevards, etc.), click the dot, and it will tell you exactly what species was planted there. It’s the ultimate “cheat code” for learning your local flora!

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Calcium Nitrate:

Mix Ratio: Apply ¼ teaspoon per 2 litres once a week. I full scoop makes 24 litres or 6 gallons.

Recommended preventing blossom end rot and calcium deficiency in tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchinis, and cannabis. It is also highly beneficial for all leafy greens and cruciferous plants (cabbage, Brussel sprouts, broccoli etc.).

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

Iron Chelate

Mix Ratio: Soil drench – apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water once every 2 weeks. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

Mix ratio: Foliar spray - apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 4 Litres of water once every 4 weeks. A full scoop makes 24 litres or 6 gallons.

Recommended for correcting iron deficiency in a variety of plants grown in high pH soil. Iron deficiency is diagnosed by the yellowing or pale colour of the plant leaves, especially in young growth.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

High Drainage

Moisten Thoroughly before use: (optional) Peat moss can be water-repellent. Before use, thoroughly wet the soil.

Potting:

Use pots with drainage holes to prevent root rot.

Fill the pot with the moistened soil, leaving enough space for the plant's root ball.

Gently place the plant in the pot and fill in around it with more soil.

Firm the soil gently.

Watering:

This is crucial! Water frequently, especially during hot weather.

Check the soil moisture regularly by sticking your finger into the soil.

Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry.

Fertilizing:

Since peat moss is low in nutrients, fertilize regularly with a balanced liquid fertilizer.

Consider Amendments:

For plants that prefer more moisture retention, you can add a small amount of coco coir or vermiculite to the mix.

Important Notes:

Overwatering: While frequent watering is necessary, avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.

Plant Selection: This type of soil is well-suited for seed starting as well as plants that prefer well-drained conditions, such as cacti, cannabis, succulents, and some tropical plants.

Adjustments: You may need to adjust your watering frequency based on the specific plant and environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, sunlight).

Alberta Blend

Moisten the Peat Moss before use: (optional) Peat moss can be hydrophobic (water-repellent) when dry. Before using it, thoroughly moisten it. You can do this by placing it in a container and adding water, then squeezing out any excess.

Mixing: (optional) Our Private Label Alberta Blend comes ready to use, expertly formulated for your plants, either indoors or outdoors.

If you're using this mix as your own base, combine it with worm castings, volcanic dust, vermiculite, etc. to improve nutrition, drainage and/or aeration.

Potting:

When potting your plants, ensure that the pot has drainage holes.

Fill the pot with the moistened potting mix, leaving enough space for the plant's root ball.

Gently place the plant in the pot and fill in around it with more potting mix.

Lightly firm the soil around the plant leaving ½ inch to an inch of space at the top for watering.

Watering:

Because peat moss retains water, be careful not to overwater.

Allow the top layer of soil to dry out slightly before watering again.

Fertilizing:

Since peat moss is nutrient-poor, you'll need to provide your plants with regular fertilization.

Use the correct fertilizer according to the plant's needs.

20-20-20 Houseplant Complete

Mix Ratio: For all houseplants apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water once a week once every week. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

It is highly recommended to start your houseplants on a fertilizer regime, but only while they are actively growing. Houseplants tend to have a period of dormancy (normally winter, however poinsettias, Xmas cacti etc. are exceptions to this rule) and whilst dormant they should not be fertilized.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

22-6-15 Plus Herb and Leafy Vegetable

Mix Ratio: For all herbaceous and leafy vegetable plants apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water once a week. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

This fertilizer is ideal for all leafy vegetables and for herbs. This product can be used year-round if you grow herbs indoors.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

20-12-28 Tomato and Fruiting Vegetable

Mix Ratio: For all fruiting vegetable plants apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water once a week. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

Use this fertilizer on planting day and push right through until the plant either stops producing or reaches the end of season. In the case of transplanted seedlings this fertilizer should be used after the 2 feedings of Js - Jump-Start & Transplant.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

10-52-10 Jump-Start & Transplant

Mix Ratio: For outdoor summer plants apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water. Normally two applications, one at the time of transplanting, the second application can be done one week later from the initial fertilizing. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

Mix Ratio: For seed starting - apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water. Do not over water seedlings, feed every 2 weeks until transplanted outside. Feed them at the time of transplanting outdoors, then one more feeding a week later. After that start using the correct fertilizer for type of plant. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

 e.g. Vt Vegetable: Tomato and Fruiting for tomatoes, F3 Flower flower flower for bedding out/annual plants.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

4-5-28 Perennial Complete

Mix Ratio: All perennials (in warm seasons) apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water every 2 weeks from spring to late summer. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

This formula is professionally blended for all your perennials. For existing perennials, we recommend starting to fertilize when you see active growth (i.e. new shoots etc.). For new perennials we recommend that you start fertilizing at time of planting and go through to mid August.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

28-14-14 Plus Trees and Shrubs - Fruit and Flower

Mix Ratio: Trees and/or shrubs (in warm seasons) apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water per week. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

This formula is professionally blended for all your fruiting and flowering trees and shrubs.

For existing trees, we recommend starting to fertilize when you see active growth (i.e. bud break, new shoots etc.).

For new trees we recommend that you start fertilizing at time of planting and go through to mid August.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

14-7-21 Tree and Shrub Leaf & Needle

Mix Ratio: Trees and/or shrubs (in warm seasons) apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water every 2 weeks. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

This formula is professionally blended for all your evergreen/coniferous and deciduous trees and shrubs.

For existing trees, we recommend starting to fertilize when you see active growth (i.e. bud break, new shoots etc.).

For new trees we recommend that you start fertilizing at time of planting and go through to mid August.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.

15-10-30 Flower, Flower, Flower

Mix Ratio: Outdoor plants (in warm seasons) apply ¼ teaspoon (1gram) /per 1 Litre of water twice a week. A full scoop makes 12 litres or 3 gallons.

This formula is professionally blended for all your annual plants. We recommend starting to fertilize at time of planting outdoors and go through to first frost.

Caution: Do not exceed the recommended amount. Keep out of reach of children and pets.