Learning how to save the seeds is the ultimate trick to scoring a guaranteed bumper crop of all your favorite garden goodies. Plus, Colin brings another treasure from his garden to try and it’s cuca-amazing!

The Cucamelon Craze: You Gotta Grow These!

Ditch the boring old cucumber—it’s time to meet its adorable, zesty little cousin: the cucamelon! Seriously, these miniature marvels are taking over gardens, and for good reason. They’re also known as the Mexican Sour Gherkin or mouse melon (Melothria scabra), but don’t worry, they’re not some weird science experiment. They’re a classic, open-pollinated heirloom from Central America.

What the Heck Is It and What’s the Flavor?

Imagine grabbing a fruit that’s the size and shape of a grape, with a rind that looks exactly like a tiny watermelon. That’s a cucamelon! Just pop the whole thing in your mouth, no peeling needed. They deliver the freshness of a standard cucumber but with a distinct, punch of sour, zesty lime. They’re super refreshing, making them perfect for snacking, tossing into salads, dressing up a cocktail (they look so cute on a skewer!), or making some quick, crunchy pickles.

🌱 Growing Cucamelons

Cucamelons are low-maintenance and high-reward, making them a dream for new gardeners.

• Warmth is Non-Negotiable: These babies hate the cold! Start seeds indoors 4–6 weeks before your last frost, and don’t move them outside until all frost danger is totally gone and the soil is nice and warm.
• Give Them a Ladder: They are vigorous climbers! Make sure you set up a tall trellis, cage, or a fence right next to them. If you let them sprawl, they’ll take over the garden, but growing them up saves space and makes harvesting easy.
• Sun and Soil: They love to bask in full sun (that’s 6–8 hours a day) and need soil that drains well. They aren’t divas about fertilizer, so you usually don’t need to feed them extra.
• Harvesting: Pick them when they are about the size of an olive or a big grape. If they get much bigger, they can get tougher. Picking them often just encourages the plant to make even more!

Smart Seed Saving: Getting Seeds Ready for Next Year

Saving seeds from your favorite plants is fun, it saves money, and it lets you brag that you’re growing plants totally customized to your own yard! The main rule? You have to be patient and let the fruit or flower fully mature and dry out on the plant before you collect the seeds.

Your Easy Guide to Saving Seeds

Plant Type	Example	When to Harvest Seeds	How to Harvest and Process
Flowers	Marigold, Zinnia	When flower heads are dark, crunchy, and dry.	Snip the dried head. Rub it over a plate or bowl to release the seeds. Blow gently to remove the dry bits (chaff).
Herbs	Basil, Dill, Cilantro	When the small flowers have died and the seed heads are brown and brittle.	Cut the entire stem. Put the head upside down in a paper bag. Shake or rub the bag to release the tiny, dry seeds.
Veggies (Dry Seeds)	Beans, Peas, Okra	When the pods are brown, totally dry, and you can hear the seeds rattle inside.	Open the dry pods and shell the seeds. Give them a final dry on a tray indoors for a few days.
Veggies (Wet Seeds)	Tomato, Cucumber	When the fruit is super ripe (sometimes squishy and past its best for eating!).	Scoop out seeds/pulp. (Then ferment them—see the next section!)

 

☀️ Wet vs. Dry Seeds: What’s the Deal?

Seeds are a bit different depending on whether they grew inside a dry pod or a wet, juicy fruit.

• Dry Seeds: These are simple! Think beans, herbs, and most flowers. You just collect them, clean off any bits, and let them air-dry for a few weeks before packing them up.
• Wet Seeds: These guys (tomatoes, cukes, squash) are covered in a slimy gel coat that actually stops them from sprouting right away. You have to remove that coat—and the best way is fermentation. This is what you do for your tomato seeds.

How to Ferment and Save Tomato Seeds

1. Extract: Squeeze the seeds and all the goo into a jar. Add a little water to thin it out.
2. Cover: Put a paper towel or cheesecloth over the top—don’t use a tight lid! Label it.
3. Wait: Let it sit in a warm spot for 2–5 days. You’ll see mold and foam—that’s good! It’s dissolving the gel.
4. Rinse: The good, viable seeds will sink. Carefully pour off the moldy stuff and floating seeds. Rinse the sunken seeds really well in a fine-mesh strainer until they are clean.
5. Dry: Spread them in a single layer on a ceramic plate or coffee filter. Let them dry for 1–2 weeks, until they are totally hard and easily slide around. Store in a labeled paper envelope!

 

What is Stratification?

Stratification is just a fancy word for chilling out. Some seeds, mostly perennial flowers, natives, and tree seeds (like lavender, milkweed, or coneflower), won’t sprout unless they think they’ve just survived a winter.

• The Problem: Their natural dormancy mechanism tells them, “Nope! Don’t sprout now, or you’ll freeze to death!”
• The Fix: You trick them! You mix the seeds with a little damp sand or paper towel in a sealed bag and stick them in the refrigerator for a few weeks. This cold, damp period breaks that dormancy and tells the seed, “Okay, winter’s done! Time to grow!”

 

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CREDITS

Hosted by: Brandi Warren & Colin Hayles

Voiceover by: Kaelan Shimp⁠⁠

Music by: Forestmusic